‘The Language of the Nation’: My First Week Teaching English in Vietnam

My first week teaching:

Throughout my travels around Southeast Asia, I’ve been (perhaps naively) stunned by the ease at which I can get away with communicating in English. I’ve written about it here if you want to read more. Last weekend, I left Hanoi to move to Lai Chau, a province in Northwest Vietnam, to teach extra-curricular English to children aged between 3 and 13. I don’t have any teaching qualifications, so I’ve spent this week adjusting to the methods of teaching here, as well as generally getting back into the swing of working life again after a 6 month break. This workplace is different to any other I’ve experienced before, so I think it’s fair to say I’ve been thrown in at the deep-end.

I don’t have to plan any lessons, only deliver them, which is why I felt comfortable giving it a go in the first place. But any teacher will know that teaching entails so much more than standing and delivering a lesson. You have to establish the kind of teacher you want to be, and perform that; balance the teaching side with charisma and a sprinkle of light-hearted humour. This is especially difficult with a language barrier, and no experience.

Because this is a rural part of Vietnam, I am being challenged when it comes to communicating, maybe even for the first time since I’ve started travelling. This means I really have to adapt the way I communicate, speaking slowly and using body language in order to get my message across. It’s challenging me in so many different ways, which is in all honesty, both exciting and stressful. I’m being forced out of my comfort zone everyday, which I’m learning to embrace, because I know that there’s so much to be gained from this, and what a special opportunity it is.

‘The Language of Our Nation’

One afternoon this week, one of the Vietnamese teaching assistants asked me to proof-read a short speech about the importance of learning English, which he was planning to submit in a competition. I was struck by the first line of the speech:

‘There are many important reasons why you should learn English: The language of our Nation.’

Whilst anecdotal, I find this interesting as a contribution to the conversation around the pervasiveness of English around the world. He writes about how learning English can improve job prospects, and help you attain a lifestyle that will allow you to ‘settle down’. He even points out how understanding English can help you avoid dangerous situations, because for example, you will be able to read the labels of dangerous chemical products.

This perception makes sense considering the history of the language, it was spread by conquest, trade and colonialisation. But as Jacob Mikanowski writes in his article for the Guardian, the language became even more prevalent ‘at some point between the Second World War and the start of the new millennium’, when it ‘made a jump in primacy that no amount of “langua Franca” or “global language” truly captures’.

Of course, English is not officially ‘the language of [the] Nation’ here in Vietnam and some don’t see English as a threat to the Vietnamese language. But because of the way the language has been forced upon countries globally, it is interesting that it is viewed with such reverence. Actually, I find it to be quite a saddening prospect. If this is widely perceived to be the case, then what about the importance of Vietnamese? English may not take precedent here, but noteably it is glorified, and associated with knowledge and power, which I find intriguing.

The speech also stated that learning English makes it possible to travel around the world, discovering and learning about new cultures. This is echoed by Dutch sociologist Abram de Swann, who divides language into 4 categories, and who states that English is the one and only ‘hyper central language that holds the language system together’. But isn’t that idea ironic? How much culture and diversity can we experience when we are all speaking the same language? With language comes so much more than communication, so aren’t we missing out on the vastness of human experience if we are only speaking English?

I have felt this paradox whilst I’ve been away, and I know that in many ways I am a massive hypocrite. I am teaching English, and I can’t speak any other languages. But I guess I am exploring something that is much bigger than myself.


Recently, there have been discussions of making English the second official language in Vietnam, with a view to it providing ‘knowledge and power’ and it creating international business opportunities (VnExpress.net). Maybe there is a difference between Vietnam and many other countries that adopt English as a second language, because there is ‘an absence of [a] long-standing association with the language’ (VnExpress.net). I.e. many countries that have English as a second language have been colonised, but there is not necessarily a direct link between Vietnam and the British Coloniser.

The difference here is that the English language may not be associated with violence and erasure in Vietnam, in the same way that these associations are made in countries that were colonised by the British Empire. But arguably, the reason why English is a desired language in Vietnam in the first place, is because of the place that the language holds in history, which is intrinsically linked to colonialisation. So perhaps the two cannot be separated in examining attitudes towards the English language in Vietnam.

The view that English is ‘the language of the Nation’ is the opinion of one person, but considering everything discussed here, it can be seen as representative of an understanding that is held almost globally, that learning English is a necessary endevour.

Travelling Solo with Painful Periods: My Experience & Tips

So, in the light of a period emoji coming into existence (yaass), I thought I would write about something that has effected me for most of my teenage and adult life, and that is, (sometimes extremely) painful periods, or as doctors like to call it: dysmenorrhea. Obviously this hasn’t stopped whilst I’ve been travelling, so I thought it may be helpful to share my experiences of it, and what may help others who suffer too.

I have struggled to find any blogs offering advice specifically addressing bad pain, and when do you suffer, the discussion is different, because you are away from home and I can even imagine for some, that it may be a factor in deciding whether going away alone is a good idea or not. In fact when I was planning my trip, my mum worried about this exact problem. Because when I suffer, I really suffer, and when it happens, it tends to be very helpful to have a friend/family member there to help; to help me get to somewhere more private, to comfort me and to give me the things I need to soothe the pain. Just to give some context, although I’ve probably made it clear enough, it usually involves me vomiting, becoming physically faint, and needing to be curled up in a ball on the floor, pretty much no matter where I am.

Obviously there is contraception available to help the pain or stop the periods, but on the first stint of my trip I wasn’t taking anything because honestly, I was kind of sick of pumping hormones into myself. The pains were bad then. On this stint of my trip though, I’m taking the pill again, a pill I’ve been on before and know my body is ok with (and taking a break every 3 months) to try and aid those pains, but it hasn’t (yet). I know I could try the coil, and that has worked for some of my friends, but I haven’t been in a position to allow my body to familiarise itself with it and definitely didn’t want to be going through that process whilst I was away (plus there is always a risk it just won’t work for you).

Over the last 5 months I’ve actually only had two really bad periods, (usually the bad ones are about 1 in every 3-4). The first time I was sick into a bin outside of the dorm room because someone was in the bathroom, and spent the next few hours in a ball on the floor clutching a pillow. Fortunately, I did have a close enough friend with me at this point. She bought me a cheese toastie and banana bread so that I was able to take my painkillers (I can’t take them on an empty stomach), and then she sat with me and encouraged me to eat it because I wasn’t hungry, the angel that she is. This experience would’ve been made a whole lot worse if I didn’t have someone with me, but I learnt from this and now prepare myself so as to avoid another situation like it (fingers crossed).

The second particularly painful time I wasn’t sick, thankfully, but found myself weaving through a crowd of drunk people to the bar of the hostel to request some hot water to fill my small, pink, Winnie the Pooh hot water bottle. I’ve also come on my period on a (5-hour-long) bus in Sri Lanka, wearing a baby blue dress, yes.

So, there are some things that can just be unhelpful when travelling being on your period, including:



1. When the shower cubicle isn’t near a bin, and you need to dispose of sanitary products

2. You worry more about getting blood on hostel’s towel/ bedsheets/ anywhere.

3. You aren’t able to snuggle up in the comfort of your own home, with that privacy, loading up on snacks and Netflix.

4. Unless you’re super prepared, everything you need when you are in pain and bleeding, is not readily available and at arms-length. Your medication, food, sanitary products, water to drink, may not be accessible when you need them. Which is the same anywhere, but when you’re somewhere unfamiliar it can be more of a problem.

In going forward, here are some tips for you that have helped me (not including contraception):



1. Work out when you’re next due on your period, so that you can be even vaguely aware of when you’ll be coming on (consider that travelling can change your cycle, because of the time changes).

2. Carry a substantial snack with you at all times, something like crackers, so that you can take painkillers if you need to. Super important.

3. Stack up on painkillers (I use a cocktail of Naproxen and paracetamol, and it is literally the only thing that works for me), as well as sanitary products.

4. I highly recommend a mini hot water bottle, a small one means it easily fits into your backpack, and it’s a game changer when you’re in pain. If you’re on the move, get some heat pads, they help too.

5. Do not feel bad if you need to take a night for yourself, resting or going to sleep early, and watching some Netflix. No, you aren’t in the comfort of your own space but you can still rest! Also FaceTiming home helps if you’re in need of some comfort.

6. Do not feel bad if you need to comfort eat, I’m pretty sure on every day of my period so far I’ve had one or more of the following: doughnuts, chocolate, sweets, danishes. Apparently sugar can make the pain worse but sometimes you just need that comfort food amirite?

7. Do not feel bad if you need to take a day or 3 to just chill, travelling can be super fast-paced, and that can be exhausting when you’re on your period, and in pain.

Periods can be really shit. This will only really apply to people that suffer bad cramps, and other side effects. However shit they are, though, it’s important to acknowledge that I am fortunate enough to have access to, and can afford to pay for, what I need when I get my period. This, unfortunately, is a privilege. There will be so many people who experience the same pain, who won’t have access to the resources that will help them.

I hope this clarifies that it is possible to travel alone with painful cycles... Do comment below if you have any other tips/ experiences to share!

One Month Backpacking in Sri Lanka: My Route & Recommendations

I left Sri Lanka yesterday with a heavy heart. Throughout my travels, backpackers are having the same conversations over and over about how friendly and how hospitable locals are. How beautiful everywhere is. How yummy the food is. Of course you’ll get the odd uneasy situation, as with anywhere, but generally my experience of SL was extremely positive. My highlights include completing the most challenging (and rewarding) hike of my life, visiting a safari for the first time, learning to surf, and experiencing my first ever yoga retreat.




My route was probably slightly different to ones you may find on other blogs, and that’s because a friend joined me for the first two weeks of my trip to SL, so we wanted to fit in as much as possible while he was there! Everyone is doing slightly different routes though, according to their time restrictions.




I visited the country 7th January- 6th February, and the weather was hot and sunny most of the time, it only rained when I was in Kandy, but it was never cold. 



Days 1- 2: Negombo




Negombo is a common way to avoid Colombo when you get into the country or just before you leave, it’s a lot more chilled than the capital. It’s around 750lkr (£3.30) for a tuktuk to or from Negombo. Has a nice beach too. We stayed at Negombo Backpackers Hostel, which is clean, comfortable and the owner is super friendly. 




Days 2- 3: Hatton/ Adam’s Peak 


Leaving Negombo, we headed to Hatton on the bus, to get there you have to go via Colombo so it took a while. We stayed in the Railway Lodge Hostel which is an old colonial building, feels quite like you’re stepping back in time. We only went to Hatton to get to Adam’s Peak. Woke that morning at 1am to head there (to be at the top for sunrise). Took a tuktuk there which was around 1 hour, it’s cheaper to get a bus though (not sure of exact prices). Completed Adam’s Peak around 9am, and headed back to Hatton, half broken. It may have been easier to stay in one of the hostels next to the mountain. Adam’s Peak was extremely challenging (for me anyway), I had done 24,000 steps by 8am HA, but it was absolutely beautiful and worth it, I would highly recommend it if you’re up for the challenge, but if not there are many other, more accessible hikes in SL.



Days 2- 5: Hatton to Ella 




From Hatton, we got the train to Ella. It’s part of the famous route from Kandy- Ella but shorter, and it was beautiful. Train was around 4 hours. Stayed in Escapade Nomadic Ella Hostel, which was nice but we found it difficult to get to in the night, so recommend going in the day, just because we had to walk along the railway track to get there (which isn’t the only way, but where the tuktuk dropped us). Friendly vibe, beautiful view. Food is average. It’s a bit out of the way, and you need to get a shuttle to Ella town but that’s quite nice. Stayed there 2 nights, and spent one more night in Ella town, in City Reach Hostel which is nice: friendly staff and clean rooms. In terms of things to do, there’s Ella’s Rock and Little Adam’s Peak which are accessible hikes, people usually do Ella’s Rock at sunrise. There is also the Nine Arches bridge which is cool to see if you’re into architecture or want the insta pic, which most people are there for! There’s also an amazing cooking class at Matey’s Hut, which is also a restaurant that apparently does amazing food (we didn’t go because we were too hungry to queue, so maybe leave some time for that one), to book the cooking class, go a day in advance. Another place to eat is Cafe C Ella, which does an AMAZING curry & rice. 




Days 5- 6: Ella to Udawalawe National Park 




From Ella, we buddied up with someone and got a private taxi to Udawalawe, which cost 7000lkr between us (£10 each). I know this is extra, but the travel situation in SL can be slightly long. It’s extremely cheap to get public transport, but expect it to take hours, and that’s totally fine if you have the time, but obviously we were slightly restricted so did choose to get some taxis to save time. In Udawalawe, we stayed at Eagle Safari Hostel, which was super homely and we had 3 double beds in the same room which was luxury! No bunks! It’s run by a sweet family, who cook wonderful food for you, too. We went on the Safari the next day at 10am, to save queuing (many people go at 5am) but 10am was fine, and we saw loads of animals. The Safari is 5000lkr (£20).




Days 6- 9: Udawalawe to Mirissa




We also got a taxi to Mirissa (oops). Between the three of us, it was 7000lkr again, to get public transport it’s three buses. In Mirissa we stayed at JJ’s Hostel which had super comfy beds but lacked atmosphere. We went Blue Whale watching here which was incredible! Highly recommend going with Raja and the Whales to do this, family-run business that are super eco-conscious and you can see they really care about marine life, they also provide an amazing breakfast on the boat! Other activities in Mirissa include secret beach and turtle bay. In terms of food, Shady Lane is yummy if you’re wanting a Western breakfast or lunch, and Curry Pot is amazing for dinner, all-you-can-eat buffet style Sri Lankan food, for 400lkr (£1.75). 




Days 9- 22: Mirissa to Weligama 




Can you tell I loved Weligama? This place is suuuuuuuper chilled and just fab. Surfing, yoga, good food. It’s only 20 min tuktuk from Mirissa, but much better in my opinion. We spent some of the time at Beatroot Hostel, which was okay, yummy breakfast included in the room rate. But The Spindrift Hostel is where you want to be, it’s probably the best hostel I’ve ever been to. It books up, so would book it maybe a week in advance if you can. It’s run by a lovely British couple, and they just know exactly what they’re doing! It’s set up for backpackers, super chilled and friendly. Would recommend the AC rooms because the non-AC ones get stuffy. Learned to surf in Weligama, with the company Lucky’s, which are great. It’s 2000lkr (£9) for a 1.5 hour lesson. Definitely worth taking a lesson, even if it’s just a refresher. 




Yoga is great at Hangtime, 1000lkr (£4.30) for a lesson or 5 lessons for the price of 4. The afternoon Yin yoga is so relaxing. In terms of food: Hangtime so yummy food as well, High Tide is good for pizza, Jonee’s is yum for local food, as is Meewitha. For fish, I hear that Fisherman’s Point is good. For amazing Western-style food, go to Nomad’s, which is probably the best Western food I had in SL, the Poké bowls are insane. Froggy is good if you’re feeling a fat bowl of pasta, bit of home comfort. Aloha is also food for pasta. For a night out and yummy food, people go to Doctor’s House, which is actually in Mirissa but there isn’t much to do in terms of nightlife in Weligama. 




There are lots of day excursions out of Weligama, mostly beaches to visit. I enjoyed Jungle beach the most, it’s serene, and you can see an incredible view of the sunset there. Also nice to have some shade, a lot of the beaches don’t have cover. Hirikiteya beach is lovely also, good to surf (probably not for beginners though). Midigama beach is cute too. We also got a bus to Galle for a day to visit the fort, which is definitely worth doing. 




Days 22- 27: Weligama- Kalutara (The Plantation Villa yoga retreat)




I caught a train from Matara to Kalutara for my yoga retreat, which was a lil treat to myself! Gorgeous experience, and significantly cheaper than other yoga retreats around SL. It is £371 for a standard room for 4 nights, including 2x yoga classes per day, meditation, all (Ayurvedic) meals, three spa treatments, and daily activities such as cookery demonstrations and yoga talks. The retreat is on a rubber farm, and has all sorts of wildlife, it’s majestic. There are rabbits, goats, monkeys, all kinds of exotic birds, snakes (yep), squirrels, etc, just roaming! There’s also a swimming pool there. Would highly recommend if you want to feel zen! 




Days 27- 29: Kalutara- Kandy 




I got a tuktuk to Kandy from Kalutara, which no sane human would ever do. It was an 8-hour ride. I had the intention of doing a 3-day tuktuk tour to end my trip, but couldn’t actually look at a tuktuk after this trip. Stayed in Hiranya Mountain View Hostel, which I highly recommend, run by a lovely family and brand new, they really make an effort to accommodate you. The next day I went on a day trip with some people in the Hostel, visiting Sri Muthumaria Temple, Aluvihare Rock, and Sigiriya (but walked up Pidurangala because it’s 500lkr compared to the $30 to walk up Lion’s Rock, and you get a good view of Lion’s Rock from there). We also went to Dambulla Golden Temple which is interesting. 




Day 29




Back to Negombo, to fly out of Colombo the next day! Goodbye SL, you will forever hold a place in my heart 💜